Most lists of things to do in Dehradun stop after FRI, Robber's Cave and Sahastradhara, then send you up to Mussoorie. Those three are on this list too. But the reason people who move here never want to leave has more to do with small things: a plate of chole katlamba at 8 in the morning, a slow walk up Rajpur Road, chai at a riverside stall with your feet in cold water.
So this list mixes both. The famous places, and the everyday stuff we actually do on a free Sunday.
Landmarks and a bit of history
1. Spend a morning at the Forest Research Institute. The red-brick building on Chakrata Road is the photo everyone takes, and it really is that big. The campus around it is huge and quiet, with old trees and long roads that are lovely to walk. Give it at least two hours, and go inside the museums if you have time.
2. Stand under Ghanta Ghar. The Clock Tower is where Rajpur Road, Paltan Bazaar and the old city meet. It is not a place you visit so much as a place you keep passing through, but it's worth stopping once to look around. Everything in old Dehradun is measured from here.
3. Visit the Khalanga War Memorial. It marks the battle of Nalapani, fought in 1814 between Gorkha and British forces. Most visitors skip it, which is a shame, because it tells you something about the valley that the cafés don't.
4. See Darbar Sahib in Jhanda Mohalla. The darbar of Guru Ram Rai is tied to the founding of the city, and his dera is where the name Dehradun comes from. If you can, time your visit with the Jhanda Mela, when the old city fills up.
Water and forest
5. Walk through the river at Robber's Cave. Locals call it Guchhupani. You walk upstream through cold, shallow water between tall rock walls, and the stream disappears underground and comes back further along. Go early, before the crowds, and wear sandals you don't mind soaking.
6. Spend a morning at Sahastradhara. Known for its sulphur springs and the small caves where water drips from the rock. Weekends get very crowded, so a weekday morning is a different experience.
7. Walk to Shikhar Falls. A short forest walk above Rajpur, and it feels much further from the city than it is.
8. Drive out to Maldevta. A riverside valley east of the city. This is the classic Sunday plan: a flask of chai, some snacks, a spot by the water, nothing else.
9. Spend a slow afternoon at Lachhiwala. Forest, shallow pools and plenty of shade.
Read our full guide to waterfalls near Dehradun before you go, especially in the monsoon.
Food
10. Eat chole katlamba in Moti Bazaar for breakfast. If you only eat one Dehradun dish, make it this one. Go early, because the shops sell out.
11. Have bun tikki in the evening. Around Paltan Bazaar or in Dalanwala, whichever side of the city you're on.
12. Warm up with thukpa on Rajpur Road. The Tibetan kitchens here are the best thing about a cold December evening.
13. Take home a box of rusks. Every Doon family does this when visiting relatives. Buy from one of the old bakeries.
More in our guide to street food in Dehradun.
Walks and views
14. Walk Rajpur Road from Dilaram Chowk towards Rajpur. Stop at a café or two on the way. In winter, this is one of the nicest walks in the city.
15. Drive up the Mussoorie road at sunset. Pull over somewhere safe a little way up and watch the city lights come on below. On a clear evening it's the best view in Dehradun, and it costs nothing.
16. Visit Mindrolling Monastery in Clement Town. The tall stupa and the gardens are very calm, even on busy days. Climb the stupa for the view.
Shopping
17. Get lost in Paltan Bazaar. Woollens, spices, Doon basmati and a bit of everything else. Bargain politely.
18. Buy a winter jacket at the Tibetan Market. The stalls near the Parade Ground are at their best when the winter stock arrives.
19. Pick up pahadi products. Honey, rajma, millet flour and handicrafts from the hills, from one of the city's pahadi stores.
One day trip
20. Go up to Mussoorie for the day. Stop at Jharipani or Mossy Falls on the way up instead of rushing straight to Mall Road.
A few things that will make your trip easier
Weekdays are far calmer than weekends at every popular spot on this list. If you can only come on a weekend, go early.
October to February is the most comfortable time to walk around. The monsoon makes the waterfalls beautiful, but some roads and paths become risky after heavy rain.
Traffic around the Clock Tower gets heavy, so plan your day by area rather than by attraction. FRI and Robber's Cave are on the west and north side, Sahastradhara and Maldevta are east, Mindrolling is south. Doing them in random order means a lot of time in a cab.
Frequently asked questions
What is Dehradun famous for?
The Forest Research Institute, its schools, basmati rice, rusks and old bakeries, and its spot at the foot of the Mussoorie hills.
How many days are enough for Dehradun?
Two days covers the main sights without rushing. Add a third if you want a Mussoorie day trip. Short on time? Try our one day in Dehradun itinerary.
What is the best time to visit Dehradun?
October to March for pleasant weather. July to September if you want the waterfalls at full flow, but be careful on wet paths.
Find more on Doon Dekho
Every place on this list is on Doon Dekho with directions. Start at Explore and pick a section.